On a faster computer you can use the Eye icon on the toolbar to disable the preview mode and show the final image in the main window, which IMHO is worth trying. The boxes at the top of the left panel filter the effects that are listed in the panel, so ignore them initially. (The options on the left are just choosing and configuring a bunch of these options for you.) Once you are happy with that changing to "Expert" in the right panel (entirely optional and can be ignored) means you can add filters from the list at the top, select them in the middle of the panel and tweak their effects at the bottom (may need scrolling down). Note the "do it" option in the bottom right. I'd go with the defaults in the "HDR Preparation" dialogue initially. HDR Projects adds a multiple image merging option on top.Īfter you've loaded the image(s) you want to work with you can then play with the canned effects on the left side, play with assorted things on the right side panel (which should start on the “Finalise” tab). All those options do is select a bunch of processing tools and choose options for them, so they are infinitely tweakable. The thing to get your brain around with the Projects software is they are a huge pile of image processing tools, which are gathered together into presets in the left pane. Once you’ve imported the images it works in basically the same way as the other Franzis Projects software. I was very pleased to see it has support for Raw file import, although as an older version I don't know how it will do with the very latest cameras (but see at the bottom for a partial solution to this). With the HDR software in today's give-away you have an additional step beyond just opening a photograph, you have to select the images to combine and choose some options. For advantages over the non-Pro version see the comparison at the top of this post. IIRC Projects 4 Pro has a couple of advantages from 3, namely you get a Photoshop plugin as a Filter, not an Export Filter and you get support for high-resolution displays (4k. You can either combine multiple images into an HDR or just select a Raw file (if you have one) and work from that (it won't be as good, but a fair bit better than the JPEG). But taking a set of (typically three) exposure-bracketed (standard, brighter, darker) images of the scene you can then combine them in some HDR software and have room and outside both visible in the picture. The camera can show the detail in the room, with the Window solid white, or the detail outside the window but everything in the room is black. The classic example is being in a dark room looking out on a brightly lit scene. Plus if anyone reading this doesn't know what HDR is, it stands for "High Dynamic Range" and is usually used to combine differently exposed photographs of a scene to end up with an image capturing a greater range of brightness than the camera can. Oh and it's a bit of a pain to register (unless you've done one of their tools before) but persevere and you'll get there. Oh and while I am doing a bit of a quick start guide don't forget to check out the manual, especially the stuff on Ghosting removal starting on page 64. Note that HDR Projects 4 Pro has a lot of options and you may need to play around a bit to get a natural looking HDR, unless you fancy doing something with a more unnatural look (although some people are not fans of highly processed HDRs others like the effect). If you have Lightroom that also has built-in HDR support. exe to the desktop and go from there (although IIRC it just saves the result in a "standard" location rather than offering a choice). Note the Nik tool is a Plugins but you can just (on Windows) drag a link to the HDR Efex 2. Another free option used to be HDR Efex 2 which is part of the Nik Tools which were Google and are now DXO, and were available as a free download when they were Google, so might still be around. (Registering if you haven't done it for a Franzis tool before is also an adventure, but the tools are good IMHO.) I like their HDR tool (which you can easily use by taking three bracketed exposures, the correct one and typically ones at plus and minus two stops, allowing you to overcome the limited range of brightnesses cameras support in a single image) and think it is well worth installing. I really like the Franzis Projects tools and some are quite excellent (their B+W converter is the best I know and Sharpen Projects is again excellent once you get away from its default attempt), so I always try to see if I can help people get over the initial learning curve. Note this is the Pro version and they gave the standard one away before. I wrote this for a previous HDR Projects 4 Giveaway and then edited it for a following one, so I'll just copy it here with a few updates in case it is of use to anyone.
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